Wheel cylinders leaking.

[Genelie]

Bummer for me, my wheel cylinders on my trailer started leaking I guess last year. I knew I always had to check the fluid, because she was always low. I finally got the unforsaken evidence of fluid on the tires... You would think they would last longer...oh well, here goes more money into the fishing season...and it really has not started yet.

 

[blakinsmith]

Genelie - I have my '03 210 trailer on jackstands as we speak. Spent a good part of yesterday pulling tires, hubs and old brakes off. One of my cyllinders was very sticky but I didn't have a leak. I'm replacing all four brakes (staying with drums) and bearings/races. BTW, all of my bearings looked very good, though the rear brakes in particular were showing their age and rust/

It wasn't too difficult a job - the four bolts holding the brake backing plates were a bit tough - but definitely a messy day.

I'm getting "Bite Me" and the trailer ready for a 2600 mile r/t road trip into Baja in March. Beer, fish, sun, tacos and no work for while...

Good luck......Barry

 

[Genelie]

Thanks...BAJA..okay I am jealous.....maybe someday in the future we can buddy down there. I know a few go to San Quintin to do fishing, I have been there in a drive check out, but not with the boat. I also know a few people that take there 21 footer a bit further on the cortez side as well.

 

[Dave LeGear]

If you can flush the brake fluid, you will not have as many failures with them. Brake fluid attracts a ton of moisture and can cause brake lines to rust (from the inside out) and seals to fail. If you have ever seen that black stuff that floats around in your trucks master cylinder, that is the junk (sort of a mold) that starts the effect. So make sure you flush your brake fluid till it turns clear to make sure you get all of that black junk out of the brake system, and make sure you use "fresh" fluid to do such and not a bottle that has been setting around for a while sucking up moisture.

On your automotive applications it was (and I still use the same schedule today) recommended that all your fluids get flushed every 2 years or 30,000 miles. I usually let the power steering fluid slide (can be a real pain to change) but did all the others. Nowadays they have power flushers (mostly BG products) that make short work of both brake and automatic transmissions. I would "suspect" that one could use the same type of brake power flusher on your boat trailer master cylinder, but I would only charge the system with just a few pounds of pressure to do such...

Heck, you might even be able to make your own simple power flusher out of a weed killer can, small fuel line, and a modified (back up) master cylinder cap that has had a fitting installed. Just fill up the can with fresh brake fluid, screw on the cap / hose combo on the master cylinder, and then add some pressure to the can... Then run to the back of the trailer and crack the bleeders on each side till the fluid goes clear and close and put your normal cap back back on. Hum......, might have to just patten such an idea so the trailer brake part makers can pay me off to just shut up! Ha-Ha...

Dave

 

[Codfish]

Good idea Putershark, but involves some work. I open my filler cap, open the bleeder valves, one at a time, and pump the coupler by putting a large adjustable (cresent) wrench on the lip at the front and force the coupler up and down to pump the fluid through the system. I pour fresh fluid in as it empties from the reservoir. Works well and no mods required. I can supply photos if description doesn't work for anyone.

Have fun in Baja, Barry.

codfish

 

[Genelie]

Hey thanks putershark, In all the years working on vehicles, I have never known about the lifespan of brake fluid. the only thing I knew is ..if it was turning black it was time to change. thanks for the insight.

 

[Genelie]

Good idea Putershark, but involves some work. I open my filler cap, open the bleeder valves, one at a time, and pump the coupler by putting a large adjustable (cresent) wrench on the lip at the front and force the coupler up and down to pump the fluid through the system. I pour fresh fluid in as it empties from the reservoir. Works well and no mods required. I can supply photos if description doesn't work for anyone.

Have fun in Baja, Barry.

codfish

please do :-}}}}}}}}

 

[Dave LeGear]

Guys,
You are more than welcome for the information As far as how your getting the fluid out now, I would only make sure you are not leaving a ton of air in the lines (then you have no brakes, bummer) when doing such.

I still remember helping the techs who use to work for me by setting up in the car on the rack and pumping up the system to get them to bleed. It pretty much took about 15 full pumps of the pedal to build up enough system pressure and that was just for one cracking of the bleeder valve on each line. So on a boat trailer with those long brake line runs, you could have to work that wrench (great idea) quite a bit (sounds like a 2 man operation also) to get out all the air along with several bottles of fresh brake fluid for sure

I still think we need to "cook up" a home built low pressure power flusher out of Home Depot / Lowes store parts, patten the idea, and make us some real "Fishing" money! Ha-Ha...

Dave

 

[Codfish]

Putershark, You are correct, it is a two person endeavor. I also forgot to mention that you have to alternately open and close the bleeder valve as you pump up and down on the coupler. Open on the down or pressure stroke, close on the up or "refill" stroke. That keeps air from entering the system. Must be done at a slow speed, no need to rush the pumping action. Valve can be opened and closed with fingers or a box end wrench left on the valve fitting. Does not have to be closed tight or opened very far during the fluid transfer.

I enlist the help of my valentine to do the pumping and I work the valve and do my best to catch the fluid as it squirts out. I think you will be surprised how fast the old fluid disappears. Just be sure to keep the reservoir full so you do not suck air on a down stroke. Yes, it will take most or all of a large can of fluid to do the whole system. I also do the rear axle first, wheel side farthest from the coupler line, so fresh fluid fills the line past the front axle junction and the rear junction. Next do the opposite side rear axle and move then to the front axle and you are getting fresh fluid to those cylinders because the main line has already been replaced.

Makes quite a mess on the ground. I try to catch the fluid in an old coffee can and protect the garage floor with cardboard.

The photo shows a 12" Crescent wrench placed on the coupler lip. You will be surprised how easy it pumps when the bleeder valves are open. I had to upload the photo to my album since I am in a hurry and don't know yet how to reduce the file size so it can be attached to this post. Search by name "Coupler Pump Handle".

codfish

 

[Genelie]

Thanks all, and from my backyard experience, you can bleed brakes by your self. Get any jar with a lid. Punch a hole in the lid, big enough for a hose that is about 1/4 same size as the nipple of the brake line bleeder nut. Add brake fluid in the jar, make sure the hose goes all the way to the bottom. As you pump the system, fluid with flow through the hose into the jar with fluid, and no air gets in. Kind of like a vacum.

 

[Codfish]

Learned something else today, thanks Genelie.

codfish