Looking for an EZ Loader trailer for my DC170 2008 model; the one that came with my boat is a Fisher brand with only 2 bunks and no front support other than the bow roller up high, and am concerned about warpage occurring. Any suggestions on where I might look to find one? Thanks
Triumph DC170 TRAILER
- Thread starter RLLADD
- Start date
Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
New or used? And do you plan on using it in Saltwater?
I also will consider modifying my Fisher trailer, at the least add a front cross brace with the two front camber supports, although modifying from 2 bunks to 4 would be ideal as well. Finding someone that can do this properly may be the trick though, in a reasonable distance from NW OK
Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
What are your plans for the Skiff? Flip it or keep it long term? For myself, that would guide me as to how much of a investment I would be willing to make and the ROI for doing such...
Most used original Triumph trailers are in the process of just rusting away in some bone yard by now. The Saltwater just ate those galvanized "lowest bidder" for the factory, trailers alive
Some pictures of the present one would also come in handy so we can all see the present condition and how it is built. Then I have some ideas
Tight Lines!
Dave
Most used original Triumph trailers are in the process of just rusting away in some bone yard by now. The Saltwater just ate those galvanized "lowest bidder" for the factory, trailers alive
Some pictures of the present one would also come in handy so we can all see the present condition and how it is built. Then I have some ideas
Tight Lines!
Dave
Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
So for your 1st option (or base level design ideas) if you want one that will last a very long time check this article 1st:
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/ameratrail-trailers.10234/
More ideas on how to take one that is made of Steel / Galvanized and make it last even longer:
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/boat-trailer-coatings.10270/
Tips on rebuilding the current, or another used (prefer Aluminum) I bean type:
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/trailer-repair-cleaning-detailing-tips.9266/
And don't forget to use this file link as a guide for bunk placement, and even a new builder can use this to help quote one
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/resources/triumph-170-trailer-schematic.2/
Hope this helps!
Dave
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/ameratrail-trailers.10234/
More ideas on how to take one that is made of Steel / Galvanized and make it last even longer:
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/boat-trailer-coatings.10270/
Tips on rebuilding the current, or another used (prefer Aluminum) I bean type:
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/threads/trailer-repair-cleaning-detailing-tips.9266/
And don't forget to use this file link as a guide for bunk placement, and even a new builder can use this to help quote one
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/resources/triumph-170-trailer-schematic.2/
Hope this helps!
Dave
Hi Dave, here are some pics of the trailer and one with the boat on it. As you can see the only front support is the bow roller, however recently when I loaded the boat it was about a 1/2 inch short of touching the front roller, so that indicated that there wasn't a lot of forward weight, the engine weight kind of balances it so it sets flat. I would think it should be fairly simple/inexpensive to add a front cross piece and a couple of short bow cambers onto the cross piece, but I'd prefer not to be the one to do this. It is a nice trailer and appears pretty new. The bunks are spaced for the bottom ledge of the boat hull to fit up inside and up near the bottom ledges, if that makes sense, so it does appear the trailer was made to fit this boat, but just wonder if I'm looking at trouble down the road by not having the original trailer design. I do not have any plans to sell the boat at this time, I really like it. Thank you.What are your plans for the Skiff? Flip it or keep it long term? For myself, that would guide me as to how much of a investment I would be willing to make and the ROI for doing such...
Most used original Triumph trailers are in the process of just rusting away in some bone yard by now. The Saltwater just ate those galvanized "lowest bidder" for the factory, trailers alive
Some pictures of the present one would also come in handy so we can all see the present condition and how it is built. Then I have some ideas
Tight Lines!
Dave
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I can help you with this, but am not a premium member so can't post certain things. email me at [email protected] if you want to converse.
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Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
The pictures help (thanks) and that appears to be a workable unit for fresh water and in great shape! And could always have it coated to make it last even longer...
What I would do is...
1. Ensure that the bunks are going past the stern so the transom is fully supported.
2. Along these same lines make sure the wench stand meets the the bow and usually they are mounted with bolts so they can slide some.
3. Remove the slide offs on the present bunks (they need to be totally flat) so the load is spread out across the entire bunk.
4. Add two extra bunks to help support that non-fiberglass hull even more like the factory designed.
5. And just to help keep the bearings in good shape and it ride / roll smoother, make sure all three tires are balanced.
Hope this helps, and you can find more ideas on the links on the last posting for possible upgrades to use on this one
Enjoy!
Dave
What I would do is...
1. Ensure that the bunks are going past the stern so the transom is fully supported.
2. Along these same lines make sure the wench stand meets the the bow and usually they are mounted with bolts so they can slide some.
3. Remove the slide offs on the present bunks (they need to be totally flat) so the load is spread out across the entire bunk.
4. Add two extra bunks to help support that non-fiberglass hull even more like the factory designed.
5. And just to help keep the bearings in good shape and it ride / roll smoother, make sure all three tires are balanced.
Hope this helps, and you can find more ideas on the links on the last posting for possible upgrades to use on this one
Enjoy!
Dave
Dave, thanks for the advice, a couple of comments and questions:The pictures help (thanks) and that appears to be a workable unit for fresh water and in great shape! And could always have it coated to make it last even longer...
What I would do is...
1. Ensure that the bunks are going past the stern so the transom is fully support.
2. Along these same lines make sure the wench stand meets the the bow and usually they are mounted with bolts so they can slide some.
3. Remove the slide offs on the present bunks (they need to be totally flat) so the load is spread out across the entire bunk.
4. Add two extra bunks to help support that non-fiberglass hull even more like the factory designed.
5. And just to help keep the bearings in good shape and it ride / roll smoother, make sure all three tires are balanced.
Hope this helps, and you can find more ideas on the links on the last posting for possible upgrades to use on this one
Enjoy!
Dave
1. The bunks are very close to even with the back edge of the stern, but as I recall don't go past it.
2. The wench stand pulls the boat pretty much straight forward up against the bow roller
3. What are the slide offs? is that the plastic runners on top of the bunks? some are tearing off in places, I was thinking of removing those completely, but there is some kind of hard goo that is on every screw head, and figured by the time I got all that off I could be tearing up the carpeting in the process.
4. Adding two extra bunks would require, I suppose repositioning the existing? or just add two more spaced inside or outside of the existing?
Thank you again Dave.
Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
Most Welcome!
And feel free to drop me a PM here on the Site with either your email address (for a online zoom meeting) or phone number and we can discuss this in real time
1. Need and not by much, to have these bunks go to the very edge or just a little past the stern... Important, that they fully support it (no matter if Fiberglass or Triumph material) so the Hull over time, does not develop a hook in it from the weight of the engine, that then acts like a wide trim tab that drives the bow down when running all the time.
2. Just need to make sure it is a proper placement fore and aft so that it can hold up the bow securely, and have the the bunks past the stern some as denoted in #1. If not, just loosen those bolts up some, and move / side it as needed to get into a better position.
3. Correct, take them off before (and soon) before they make marks in the hull from the lack of support, or acting like something that is trying to cut through the bottom of it when either bouncing off of them on the road, or you just walking around inside her when on the trailer. They need to be a flat surface all the way across the top of the bunk, and at the correct angle for that section of the hull... I would just have them removed and recover them with fresh carpet when getting the other two bunks installed.
4. Could not tell you without seeing it setting on the trailer and how they are positioned and what angle they are setting at? Use the factory guide as a key though, to position all of them in the correct place and angle of attack, for that part of the deadrise of the hull. She needs to be held in a V like position (see attached) just like you would gently conform and hold an egg in your hand
Hope this helps?
Dave
And feel free to drop me a PM here on the Site with either your email address (for a online zoom meeting) or phone number and we can discuss this in real time
1. Need and not by much, to have these bunks go to the very edge or just a little past the stern... Important, that they fully support it (no matter if Fiberglass or Triumph material) so the Hull over time, does not develop a hook in it from the weight of the engine, that then acts like a wide trim tab that drives the bow down when running all the time.
2. Just need to make sure it is a proper placement fore and aft so that it can hold up the bow securely, and have the the bunks past the stern some as denoted in #1. If not, just loosen those bolts up some, and move / side it as needed to get into a better position.
3. Correct, take them off before (and soon) before they make marks in the hull from the lack of support, or acting like something that is trying to cut through the bottom of it when either bouncing off of them on the road, or you just walking around inside her when on the trailer. They need to be a flat surface all the way across the top of the bunk, and at the correct angle for that section of the hull... I would just have them removed and recover them with fresh carpet when getting the other two bunks installed.
4. Could not tell you without seeing it setting on the trailer and how they are positioned and what angle they are setting at? Use the factory guide as a key though, to position all of them in the correct place and angle of attack, for that part of the deadrise of the hull. She needs to be held in a V like position (see attached) just like you would gently conform and hold an egg in your hand
Hope this helps?
Dave
Dave LeGear
Contributing Member
- State
- Florida
Another item to check / adjust while working with on it...
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/media/determining-and-adjusting-your-trailer-tongue-weight.10285/
Like balancing the tires, you want it to ride and tow back there as "Smooth as Snakes on Glass" when going down the highway
https://www.performanceoutdoors.net/media/determining-and-adjusting-your-trailer-tongue-weight.10285/
Like balancing the tires, you want it to ride and tow back there as "Smooth as Snakes on Glass" when going down the highway
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