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Replacing bunks

Harper

Harper

Recognized Leader Triumph 191/195 Forum
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I've never been particularly impressed with the EZ-Loader trailer that came with my boat. And my latest experience did nothing to improve my opinion of it. When I was recovering the boat a few months ago after a day on the water, I noticed after backing the trailer down the ramp that a bunk had come off its mount in the front. Luckily I was able to lay the bunk on the bracket and there was enough stubs left on the bolts to stay in the holes in the bracket. The weight of the boat would hold the bunk in place on the bracket.

Today, following the advice offered in the forum by Push&Pull for getting the boat off your trailer, I started replacing my bunks.

Have attached pics of the process of pulling the trailer out from under the boat. And also of the condition of the trailer. I honestly don't think EZLoader made these trailers for salt water use. I don't think the bunk brackets or bolts were galvanized. The rails are aluminum, and the crossmembers and axles are galvanized.

I'll update the thread as I progress. The bunk carpet and glue are due to arrive on Thursday. I have 1/4" thick aluminum brackets and stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers. Also will be attaching the carpet with stainless brads along with the glue. I don't think EZLoader used stainless steel staples on the bunk carpets, either.

Pics today of the boat and of the condition of the bunk hardware that came off today. Had to cut all the bolts off.

136.jpg 138.jpg 139.jpg 140.jpg 141.jpg 145.jpg 143.jpg 144.jpg
 
I am going to get 4 - 10' pressure treated 2x6s tomorrow or the next day. I had thought about trying some sort of plastic bunks with aluminum rails underneath made by a company that I think someone on the forum had posted last year, but decided to go the cheaper route, with the idea of having a custom trailer built someday. I do have some rust on the galvanized risers where the bunks are mounted. SOliciting ideas about the best way to go about mitigating that. Maybe some rust converter (does it work on galvanized?) Anybody have a favorite brand of rust converter? Should I paint after cleaning it up? Any ideas appreciated.

148.jpg 149.jpg
 
Great pics--thanks for the info and post. I'm not familiar with rust converters so can't be much help--sorry. You could wire wheel the rust, paint and coat with T9, but I don't think that would really last in SW, but it will buy time until you get the whole new trailer. I assume new cross members from EZ Loader are too expensive?
 
Yeah. Again, just don't care to sink a lot of money into this trailer. I'm not sure how much the X-members would cost. Actually haven't found these particular crossmembers on their website. Would probably have to call for availablility and price.
 
Well, the glue for the carpet arrives tomorrow, but the carpet hasn't shipped yet. Going to be spending a good part of the day cleaning up those crossmembers. I do have a rust converter That I'll use, then a farm implement anti-rust primer on that, followed by an anti-rust aluminum colored paint. Hopefully the trailer will be ready and waiting by the time I get the bunks covered.
 
A couple of rustproofing suggestions: if it is new metal try cold galvanizing compound, higher the zinc content the better. If you are trying to treat rust, have you looked at the POR-15 line of products?
 
Thanks. yeah I have used the POR-15 stuff on my old Jeep floorboard. Works good.. Live between two small towns though, and couldn't find any around here.:(
 
My trailer bunk rebuild pics are posted in the 190 forum. I used salt treated lumber (similar to pressure treated but a formula optimized for saltwater decks/docks. I changed from lag bolts to through bolts with slight countersink to make sure they wouldn't pull out of the wood with age. I used stainless staples to attach the new carpet and stapled on the edge as well as underneath.

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net...ader-trailer-bunk-schematics.2214/#post-46237

A lot of your rust is probably just staining from the through bolts. I re-used the vertical supports but cut off all of the old u-bolts and replaced as i needed to reposition the bunks. If not, I might have just removed the wooden bunks and not replaced any of the ubolts as they were only corroded on the surface and there was lots of good metal..
 
Last edited:
Yes, you're correct. A lot of the rust is just stain from the brackets and bolts. But there is some rust on the verticals, too. I knocked off all the loose rust and have treated it now with converter. Bottle says I have to wait three days before applying any aerosol primer or paint.056.jpg 057.jpg
 
I wish you luck with the repairs. I went the same route that you did, and bought pressure treated lumber, carpet, glue, and stainless steel bolts and nuts and spent several days ripping out the old and replacing with the new. However, it came to a point where I needed new axles (dual axle trailer) and finally gave up and purchased a rolls axle trailer. I have attached a picture of one of their trailers, and there is a thread that I started and recommended the product. (I get nothing from them, just think they are a great trailer). You can check out their website http://www.rollsaxle.com/contact_us.htm.
upload_2017-5-8_15-33-57.jpeg
 
Yessir....planning to go that very route one of these days. I've seen your thread. Thanks.
 
Thanks, I'll have a look.
 
djnolan said:
My trailer bunk rebuild pics are posted in the 190 forum. I used salt treated lumber (similar to pressure treated but a formula optimized for saltwater decks/docks. I changed from lag bolts to through bolts with slight countersink to make sure they wouldn't pull out of the wood with age. I used stainless staples to attach the new carpet and stapled on the edge as well as underneath.

https://www.performanceoutdoors.net...ader-trailer-bunk-schematics.2214/#post-46237

A lot of your rust is probably just staining from the through bolts. I re-used the vertical supports but cut off all of the old u-bolts and replaced as i needed to reposition the bunks. If not, I might have just removed the wooden bunks and not replaced any of the ubolts as they were only corroded on the surface and there was lots of good metal..
Click to expand...

DJ, after some consideration, I've decided I wasn't real happy with the lag screws in the PT wood, either, and have decided to opt for the through bolts. Just ordered 36 SS carriage bolts to secure the brackets. I'll be insetting them slightly, before gluing down the carpet. I'm also using 1" long large head ring-shank stainless nails on the bottom side of the carpet, instead of staples.
Thanks for the idea on through-bolting.
 
Thanks for sharing the experience, Harper. One question, is it safe for the boat to be lifted from the two hooks at transom? I tried to search the forum but could not find Push&Pull's post for getting the boat off your trailer? Could you please let me know the link to that post?
 
Yes, it's safe to lift by the transom tie-down points. If you see the one picture where I used my tractor, I just lifted it high enough and pulled it rearward onto the platform I had made and set it down. The trailer was held in place by being hooked to the truck. Go to this thread, post #6 for a short explanation of Push & Pull's method. https://www.performanceoutdoors.net...cement-winch-strap-for-195cc.6301/#post-37191
 
The Saga Continues.........
069.jpg
Trailer needs a little electrical work, but otherwise is ready to roll.....
 
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