Convert to disc brake

[linchuntao]

I have 2006 Triumph 195cc with triumph EZ loader single axle trailer that came with drum brake. The drum brake does not work now and I want to replace it with Kodiak stainless steel disc brake. I went to a local shop and was told they have to first convert the oil bath bearing to grease or they cannot install disc brake. Is that true? Anyboday has original triumph EZ loader trailer that has disc brake and oil bath bearing?

 

[Harper]

The '07 and later 195CC trailers are tandem axle and have disc brakes with oil bath bearings. But I think your local shop is correct. I've researched Kodiak SS discs and as far as I can tell, you have to convert to greased bearings.

 

[linchuntao]

For 07 and later tandem axle trailers, what brand of disc brake do they come with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harper]

I've no idea what brand they are, but in my opinion, they are worthless in salt water. Not stainless, last about a year, max (yes, I rinsed and sprayed with a salt away product). I've removed the calipers and decided to do without. I thought about buying Kodiak SS, but decided against it, because the pads would still probably need replacing every year. The backing plates on the pads rusted worse than the rest of the assembly. The pads literally fell apart the middle of my second season. So they were on there a total of 18 months max when I noticed that there were no pads left, just a hunk of rust, that used to be a backing plate, doing a swell job of scoring the discs. I imagine that the actual pieces of braking material are lying on the highway somewhere in south Texas, barely used, since they probably just fell off the backing plates before they had much wear. So what I have now are rusty discs that I'll soon replace with regular hubs. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, the brake lines also rusted through and fell apart just as quick.

Edit......just checked and the backing plates on Kodiak SS brakes are also SS, so would likely be suitable. Still doesn't change my mind, but wanted to correct that portion of my post.

 

[linchuntao]

Hmmm... Thank you very much for the information, Mike. Just thought for safety reason, I may need trailer brake for a trailer over 4000#...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harper]

Well, it's a good idea to have trailer brakes, but after I realized that I'd been driving all those miles, for who knows how long, without brakes, I figured they're just not worth the bother. I'd say for the guy that lives near the water, and only has to drive down the block to launch his boat, they're definitely not worth the money to purchase and maintain. But if a body must drive a ways in traffic and/or at highway speeds, I will not advocate foregoing the brakes. That is a decision that each individual must make. I live 250 interstate miles from where I launch, and drive there and back 6-8 tmes in an average year. I chose to upgrade my tow vehicle brakes instead.

 

[mrgreencms]

I thought I would add my thoughts. I had to update my brakes on the trailer. Purchased new Kodiak system brakes, new brake lines because the metal ones rusted through. The total cost of the entire system was north of 500.00 by the time I was through. Sometime later the oil bath system on one axle failed and I replaced the entire tandem system with to grease and when the shop was working on the axles they let me know that the new braking system needed to be replaced. It was only a year old, and I hose the entire system down each and everytime I pulled the boat out of the water. I had them remove the entire braking system and have not been using one on the trailer for a year now. I tow with an F-250 4x4 which weighs in at 9000lbs, so the boat fully loaded does affect the truck at all. ( At least not that I have noticed) I do tow locally and generally tow over 200 miles at least once a year. You will have to make the choice to forgo or not.

 

[linchuntao]

Thank you very much for the info. My SUV is about 6000#. I can feel the braking difference with 4500# towing behind. I need to tow 80 miles one way to the launch site. That includes highway and up/down the mountain. Traffic is sometimes heavy and emergent stopping is not very rare. So I have to either be very cautious and preventive, or replace the not working trailer brakes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harper]

Well, as I said, that's a decision for each individual. As Harry Callahan says, "A man's got to know his limitations." And that of course includes the limitations of your equipment, the characteristics of your terrain enroute, etc. I have plenty of traffic (well, maybe not in comparison to California) but have no mountains to worry about, only inconsequential hills.

 

[linchuntao]

Do you guys prefer oil bath hub or grease hub? From my research, seems that grease hub is better for boat trailer? In case it fails, we may still get home. Is oil bath hub easier for maintenance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harper]

I don't personally have a preference. I've had no problems with the oil bath hubs, and in my truckin' days (I came out of retirement for three years in '06, and drove OTR, just for something to do), virtually every big rig trailer I pulled had the oil bath hubs.

 

[linchuntao]

Yeah, they said oil bath hub is preferred in heavy duty trailer or trailer is used in regular basis. If the trailer can sit there for several weeks, grease hub is better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Harper]

I've heard that comment, but then any one of our several hundred trailers would sit for weeks on end, without a problem. My boat trailer sits several weeks at a time.... all the time. The premise is that the oil drains off the top bearings, leaving them dry. I disagree, and think there is enough oil remaining to lube them before that 1/2 revolution that thoroughly soaks all the bearings again, and if there is any difference in stress on the races or bearings themselves, it's going to be the axle weight on the bottom bearings that are constantly soaked, moving or not.

 

[mrgreencms]

My thoughts is the grease bearings are easier to care for. Just a thought. I did inspect and care for the oil bath hub, but for general care, hook up a grease gun, reload the bearings and you are done. Once a year pull the bearings (or before a long trip) clean and repack the bearings.

 

[Alan]

My experience with the oil bath hubs is that I tow to the boat ramp, anywhere from 20 to 200 miles, the hubs heat up as is normal for any hub. I back the trailer into the cold water and as the hubs cool a bit of water gets sucked into the hub. I change oil at least once a year. It would be easier and quicker with grease hubs to just get out the grease gun. I also had one of the original all-plastic caps shatter and fall apart the first time I changed the oil. Lucky it didn't happen at 65 miles an hour 3 hours from home. Replacement caps are metal with a plastic window. Over the road trailers seldom get dunked in water so they don't have that problem. Just my 2 cents worth.