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Bunk Replacement

djnolan

djnolan

Contributing Member
Premium Member
City
Herndon
One of the bunks on my trailer has broken so it needs to be replaced. The trailer supply store only carries them in lengths up to 6 feet. The bunks currently on the 190's trailer are 8 ft. and 12 ft. Can anyone tell me where they can be purchased pre-made in these lengths?

If I have to make them, is standard pressure treated lumber and stainless steel staples ok to use?
 
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Another question: The bunk layout is different than the 190 schematic. Instead of a center Vee support the center bunk is 3 ft. longer (12 ft total) and seems to take the place of the Vee support. Is this a Triumph factory supported configuration?
 
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I think it was probably the factory setup in years past, but they probably found that the center bunk extending 4½' beyond the front support bracket did not afford enough support due to flexing of those center bunks, and added the V-support in later years. If you can do it, it's probably wise to add the V-support. Maybe Merritt Marine can help you.
 
Interesting. Even though there is a 3rd support on the center bunk at about the same position as the Vee support, one of the center bunk boards broke midway between the front and middle support.
 
Okay.....didn't realize there was a front support for the middle bunks. I would think that's adequate, but also interesting that that's where the break occurred. Could be that there's a lot of pressure there when launching and even more on recovering.
 
Exactly what I am thinking, maybe the Vee support mod was due to the stress and breakage of the center bunk.

I am thinking about ordering and installing the front Vee support from Merritt and cutting off the two center bunks at 9 ft.
 
I would be willing to bet the bunks broke due to Triumph using junk wood that was too thin. I used 2x10 PT on mine and they don't flex, break or rot. I also bolted them in so they would follow the keels slight curve a it moves forward. With our boats having such potential for flex, I feel more support is better. :cool:


Osprey Vic's trailer has a very functional bunk layout, not to mention super nice trailer overall. (4th pic)
 

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I contacted Chad at Merritt Marine and he was extremely helpful and provided the following advice.

First the Load Right trailers of that vintage (2002) have a longer center bunk as described (12 ft) and a separate bow support is not needed. (EZ Loader trailers are different)

Second the center bunk needs to be staggered from the outer bunk by 4 in. So when I replace the center bunks I also need to locate them 4 in forward of where they are now.

Third, I need to move the winch stand further forward so the boat transom is fully supported on the bunks.

And another item we discussed was the inner hull drain location. On a 190 it is in the bilge on the side of a center stringer and not on the outside of the hull like it is on a 210. Perhaps someone could assemble a table with this info for all models.

Enjoy the pictures...

bow bunks2.jpg

190 bunks rear.jpg
 
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Has anyone had any experience with Gatorback bunk replacement boards? How would they work with a plastic hull. Unfortunately the cost is high (around $400 for a 190 layout) but they claim to keep the boards from rotting by allowing the water to drain away.

http://gatorbak.com

What are the best bunk boards to use underneath?
 
I found a lumber yard that sells marine pressure treated lumber 2 x 6's. They called them salt treated. Would there be any harm in using these to replace the bunk boards?
 
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does anyone know if its ok to jack one side of the boat to replace a trailer bunk
 
It's not so much that jacking one side is OK or not......just be sure to spread support at the jacking spot as much as possible to avoid dimpling the hull.

I just found it easier to lift the front and jack the stern and then support the hull temp with blocks and wood while I slide the trailer out from under the boat. I used an portable engine lift to raise the bow from the lifting ring. I have done it this way several times replacing the carpet and making mods to the bunks.
 
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thanks for the replys. i got some bunk carpet at west marine, its real cheap compared to the original. i could just go ahead and put on a new board, head to the lake with a drill and sockets and just get er done. but part of me wants to use the old carpet its still in good condition, and save the $30. sounds like its easier to jack the whole boat instead of one side. thanks

on a side note, take it easy going over speed bumps in the parking lot when theres no boat. the boards bounce causing one to snap.
 
My carpet was worn badly near the end of the bunk so I replaced it. I think I used 12" wide carpet and it barely wraps around the bottom to staple.

If you have one bad bunk the rest are probably ready to go too. The wood gets soft after ten years and they will either break or the bolts will pull out.

I used large washers with countersunk thru bolts and double nuts to attach the boards instead of lag bolts. A pain to line up the bolts to the brackets but they won't pull out. Once the bolts were lined up, then I removed the bunk board, and used stainless or copper fasteners to attach the carpet to avoid corrosion. Also use galvanized or zink plated bolts, and spray with cold galvanizing compound.

It was an experiment and I wasn't totally happy with the fit but I think it is going to hold.

If you can figure out a way to replace the boards without removing (cutting off) the u-bolts even better. Although they had surface rust and the nuts would never come off, there was still 90% solid steel remaining with plenty of strength.
 
With the reconfiguration of my bunks I had dropped the tongue weight on the trailer to the point it swerved around 60mph. Since the transom didn't quite make it on the bunks I moved the winch stand forward another 3" to add tongue weight. So i went fishing thinking all my problems were solved.

When I recovered the boat and winched it up on the trailer, the bunks and the transducer collided and guess who lost? And further I needt o use pliers to get the bilge plugs out because the bunk was in the way.

Never simple, multiple adjustments needed to get things optimized.

So next question is whether to move the outer bunk outwards so it matches the Triumph schematic or move the transducer mounting point? And 2nd the stagger of the bunks in the schematic doesn't exactly match the countours of the hull front to rear.

On a positive note, I did install my inner hull drain.
 
make sure you put a roller under the bow. too much weight on front roller could cause the bow to crack
 
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